Collagen is the ultimate buzz word when it comes to skincare and anti-ageing – and it’s buzzing for good reason.
In this article I’ll share 5 ways that you can boost your collagen levels, both at home and in clinic, suitable for all.
What is collagen?
Firstly, let’s consider why we rave so much about collagen.
Collagen is a protein and we have loads of it in the body. In fact, it makes up 30% of all different proteins in the body. It is mostly in the skin but also in the hair, nails, ligaments, tendons and even bones – basically everywhere that requires a degree of structure. Collagen is a building block, offering support to all the blood vessels, nerves and other good stuff.
The reason we care about this in the aesthetics/skincare world is because the more good collagen you have, the more youthful and healthy your skin looks!
What happens to collagen levels as we age?
Collagen is constantly being broken down, repaired and/or new collagen laid down but as we age this process isn’t as efficient. The body loses it’s ability to preserve and repair collagen, and it produces much less new collagen.
In the skin we notice the skin becomes thinner, saggier, duller, and develops fine lines and wrinkles as a result. This becomes much more noticeable in the perimenopausal period of a women’s life as the drop in oestrogen levels has a huge effect on collagen production.
However, all is not lost… we can actually stimulate our skin to produce more collagen and reap the silky skin benefits in the process…
How can we increase collagen levels?
Now that we’ve established that collagen is the secret to youthful skin, we want to do everything we can to preserve it and boost our levels!
To preserve it????
UV PROTECTION
Wear a hat, cover up, AND wear a broad-spectrum SPF of 30 or higher, and reapply every 2 hours = simple.
FACT: UV light damages collagen and blocks it’s production for up to 12 hours after exposure
Of course, you’re already properly protecting yourself from SPF so let’s dive into ways you can boost your collagen stores even more.
Let’s take your face to the gym!
Ways to boost collagen at home:
1. Vitamin A (retinoids) + Vitamin C
Both of these active ingredients are vital for collagen preservation and to stimulate your skin to produce more collagen.
The catch is that you have to pay good money and get quality versions of both of these active ingredients. Always choose a medical-grade / evidence-based version. Over-the-counter versions have very little amounts of the active ingredient, they’re often so unstable so even less makes it’s way into your skin, and of course there have been no clinical studies to back up any claims.
Put your money into the science behind a product rather than it being the new anti-ageing product from SpaceNK.
My top vitamin A (retinoid) - HAND’S DOWN – is the Skinbetter Science AlphaRet which is revolutionary in it’s preparation meaning that you get little/no reactive side effects yet it’s comparative to the strongest prescription retinoid available.
My top vitamin C – is the Skinbetter Science Alto Defense & Repair Serum which has a new form of vitamin C that is much more stable allowing for a higher penetration, and it’s acne/irritant safe.
2. Professional collagen supplements
Collagen supplementation can (only through professional lines) stimulate extra collagen in the skin. After you consume the supplement (usually in the form of a drink), the collagen will be absorbed into the blood stream and find it’s way round the body. When the skin cells notice that there is collagen in the blood, they assume this is broken down collagen and this triggers them to increase their collagen production to combat this breakdown.
Now for a long time I wasn’t an advocate for collagen supplements because I couldn’t find enough evidence. As a doctor, I will only offer treatments and sell products that I have clinical evidence for. I delved into the (scanty) research out there for a lot of the powdered and popular internet-advertised brands and sadly found very little evidence apart from a possible increase in 5% of collagen…. The marketing industry strikes again.
In clinic, I offer Skinade which is a marine based and liquid formulation version of collagen with substantial evidence behind it. Studies have shown that Skinade can increase the skin collagen levels by up to 72% after 3 months of daily use which is pretty incredible! There are a couple of other effective brands out there but ensure they are recommended by a medical professional who has the training to assess evidence critically.
3. LED light therapy
Using an LED light mask at home is a great way to boost collagen levels. Also a great way to pretend to be Iron Man with the kids…
To explain a little about LED light, or photobiomodulation, we need to break down the different types of light that are present to us as earthlings. The sun’s rays are not only UV (the bad bad bad naughty rays), but also radiation, infrared, and lots of visible forms of light such as blue light and red light.
Red light is the key here. The application of red and near-infrared light has been found to stimulate collagen and blood circulation which can speed healing of wounds, such as burns or ulcers, and reduce signs of aging, like wrinkles and brown spots.
My recommended LED mask is the Omnilux Contour mask – worn for only 10 minutes a day and RRP at around £350, available through my online portal (often at a discount).
Ways to boost collagen in clinic:
Now that you’ve nailed your at home methods, let’s consider some of the evidence-based methods to increase your collagen in clinic.
4. Microneedling
Suitable for almost everyone (unless you have active acne or inflamed skin), microneedling is a very natural way to stimulate collagen.
Using a pen-like device with lots of teeny needles in the end, microneedling feels a little like pressing an electric toothbrush against the skin. Thankfully, not painful and doesn’t require numbing cream for the purposes of skin rejuvenation.
It works by causing tiny controlled trauma to the surface level of skin and stimulating the body’s natural healing response which in turn really ramps up the collagen production. BONUS – microneedling is also great for helping with skin texture, large pores and pigmentation.
For best results, I recommend a course of 3 x treatments, 4-6 weeks apart and then a top up treatment every 4-6 months.
5. Profhilo + Polynucleotide injections
Lastly, but arguably MOST POTENTLY, we have the biostimulating injectables – Profhilo and polynucleotides.
Profhilo = high dose, pure hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is the molecule that holds onto the water in our skin so reflects our hydration levels. It also stimulates production of collagen.
Polynucleotides = Purified DNA molecules derived from fish gonads (AKA the salmon sperm facial)
Polynucleotides regulate inflammation, boost circulation, promote healing and stimulate collagen.
Both these collagen stimulating products have completely transformed the aesthetics industry in recent years, encouraging a more regenerative approach and I am totally here for it! To clarify, neither of these products are fillers, but naturally occurring molecules that stimulate the skin to create collagen, heal itself, boost moisture and vascular supply and promote healthy tissue. The only reason they are injected is because they can’t get to the layer of the skin where we need them via any form of cream/serum.
They have slightly different properties and indications but can even be used in combination targeting more specific areas such as the delicate eye area or smoker’s lines.
An individual Profhilo or polynucleotides treatment start at around £300 and usually a course is recommended for best results.
So how many collagen stimulating treatments are you already doing?
A combination approach will always give best results – similar to choosing multiple ways to stay healthy (exercise + nutrition + meditation + socialising etc etc.).
All products, devices and treatments are available directly through me in clinic so if you’re not already reaping the benefits then get in touch and let’s take your face the gym!
Written by Dr Alison Colville, Founder of The Avery Clinic, Leamington Spa, Warwickshire
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